Thursday, February 19, 2009

London Part II

For the last three days of my London stay, I spent most of my time walking around the different neighborhoods. I spent an evening in Notting Hill, a day in Primrose Hill and Regent's Park. A day walking from the City (Central East London) over to southwest of Buckingham Palace. I crossed off various types of food and drink from my list of things I needed to try in London. I had fish and chips, Indian food, Yorkshire pudding, beans and toast, marmalade, scone, a pasty, and just about any kind of beer I could find.
The first day, Saad and I headed out to Notting Hill to explore its bars and restaurants. A few pints of beer (Red Stripe on tap!), some pretty spicy Thai food with a nice view of the city, and then we headed back to Saad's place. I found the best possible way to pass out on a couch about 3.5 feet wide.
Turns out the best thing to do is take off the cushions and set them on the floor next to the couch. The next day I grabbed some quick breakfast from a small cafe on the way up to Primrose Hill and Regent's Park. Any cafe in which there are equal numbers senior citizens and guys in coveralls and work boots is good in my book. £1.60 for a breakfast is good in my book, and it was.
From there I headed out to go look at Lords Cricket Ground. Unfortunately, the only way to get in was a organized tour that cost £15, which I decided not to pay, as this is the cost of a ticket. Later that day I met up with a British guy I had met in Oslo who worked in London, so we grabbed a pint at about 530, and then met up with Saad at a pub near his work for a few rounds of drinks. At about 10pm we realized that we should probably grab some food, so we headed over to a kebab shop, talked them into making a chicken schwarma sandwich, grabbed a BBQ type of baguette, and then covered them in various types of hot sauce.
The next morning, I grabbed a pasty for breakfast (I contend this a completely viable option). Then I walked the various shopping districts from Covent Garden to South Kensington. I met up again with Rob and Saad for more pints, then we headed out to a really nice Indian place for some dinner. Before heading back we grabbed one final pint of tasty British beer.
The next morning at 530am I grabbed the Underground to Heathrow. The plane was about 35% full. This gave me a full row to myself. Upon arriving in Detroit, back in the good ole US of A, I was selected for a "random search" of my bags; scruffy-looking guy who spent 2 months overseas with one big bag. The Customs guys were really cool, and the search was pretty quick.
An 8 hour layover in Detroit spent at my parent's house for some excellent venison sausage and cheese, and I headed back to DTW for my flight to the windy city.
I arrived in cold Chicago, where the drinks come with free refills, the condiments are free, and about 70% of people speak English. Just the right amount.
I'll probably come up with a profound-looking summation post tomorrow, but I think I'm good for today. I'm also working on getting the pictures posted.

London

We arrived in London at about 3pm. We walked over to the hotel, changed, grabbed some tea, then headed out to do some walking around in London. We started at our hotel then walked down to Leicester Square, Covent Garden, Chinatown, Picadilly Circus, Trafalagar Square, Parlement and Big Ben, then headed over to the London Eye. Yeah, it was a bit touristy, but it was actually really cool. Along the way we grabbed a few pints and split a beef and ale pie.
We then headed to the pub next to the hotel to finish up the night with a few more rounds and some food. We saw this a few other places: a sampler platter of marinated lamb kebabs, calamari, falafel, chicken, fires, onion sticks, hummus, and small bits of fried dough.
The next morning we grabbed the breakfast from the hotel, which was not the nicest breakfast I have ever had. Apparently, the breakfast closed about 10 minutes after we sat down, which became obvious as they started putting stuff away around us and then started sweeping up around us, etc. The food was really quite good. They had a full English set up: egg over medium, toast, bacon, baked beans (preferably Heinz), breakfast sausages, baked tomatoes, black pudding (blood sausage), and a bunch of other buffet-type stuff. We then headed out to Buckingham Palace, Hyde Park, and Knightsbridge to check out the high-end shopping, especially Harrods. We grabbed some theater tickets for later that night, and grabbed some lunch in Harrods food court. He headed back, grabbed a quick pint, then headed out to see the play Entertaining Mr. Sloan. The play was quite good, the only problem being that you could take drinks into the theater if they were in plastic cups. Unfortunately, this meant that about 20 minutes into the first act, the two pints from the lobby caught up to me.
Afterward, as we didn't check into which places had late dinners, as 10 pm is the latest that most pubs serve food. So we ended up at an "American-style" restaurant Garfunkels. This was the only place in Europe that had Budweiser on tap, and not the Czech Budweiser (unrelated and very tasty). This was the one from St. Louis. I mean so many good beers in London, and we picked the place that had none. The food was fine, but I was happy that we didn't need to go back.
Friday we spent the day walking around in Camden Town, checking out the market and eating lunch in a pub (sandwich of brie and tomato and then a meat pie). We then took the metro back down to walk around some of the parks, then headed back to the hotel to change before heading out. That night we took the "Jack the Ripper Tour" around the City of London and around the edge of White Chapel. While this may have been a bit hokey, the guy who gave the tour trained with the guy who is considered to be one of the world's experts on Jack the Ripper. The tour was about one part history and one part goofy/gristly details.
The next day we grabbed breakfast at a Lebanese place on the way over to the British Museum. The British museum is fricking nuts. It is one of the largest museums I have been to, and it contains impressive antiquities from about about every civilization that had been occupied by the British. As Lonely Planet stated "Why go to Iran, Iraq, Africa, Greece, etc. when you could create a world-spanning civilization and then take artifacts back to your capital?"
After the museum, we had a few drinks and some dinner at an Italian place before meeting up with my friend Saad for drinks. We hit a few fun bars around the hotel before heading back to the hotel at about 1am, when the pubs close. Jamie took off the next morning for Heathrow and I headed over to Saad's place for the rest of my London Stay.

Monday, February 16, 2009

Paris

Our hotel in Paris was quite nice. Not overly spacious, but clean and in an excellent location,right off the RER (like the Metra in Chicago) stop that went to Charles de Gaulle Airport and to Paris Norde, where our Eurostar train to the UK would leave.
The first night we headed over to Notre Dame Cathedral, then walked along the Seine to the Eiffel Tower. This is about an hour worth of walking, or an hour and twenty minutes including the time to and from our hotel. So we stopped along the way to grab a coffee from a cafe on the plaza of the Sorbonne, a glass of wine and a small snack at a brasserie on the way to the tower, and then dinner in a fondue restaurant in a rather tourist-y area north of our hotel. After checking with any of the guidebooks I had brought, it turns out we ate in the rather infamous "Bacteria Alley," where only the most foolish of the tourists eat. Not great food, but it was at least slightly better than fair.
The next morning (late morning) we got up and having missed Paris breakfast and being tired of non-free refills, we went to the Breakfast in American Cafe, featuring bottomless cups of coffee.
We walked around the neighborhood, found a bar with cheap beer and wine that had a pool table. However, it was a french pool table, so there were no solids and stripes, it had red balls and yellow balls plus a black ball. Played for a bit, wandered around a bit more, then went back and took a nap and watched some TV. When we headed out for dinner, apparently the places within our area were all closed, so we found a friendly Tibetan restaurant, with only a moderate amount of comprehension. In other words, we had an interesting dinner; however, it was not quite what we thought we had ordered (mostly done by pointing at the menu).
The next morning we grabbed an early lunch from a nearby bistro before heading to the Louvre. Though we decided to sample the cheese platter for desert. I learned that there is only so much cheese I can eat in one sitting.
Regarding the Louvre, the shear size of this museum was impressive, as was its holdings. In the solid half-day that we spent walking around in it, we only saw about half of the museum. After which we grabbed a quick snack and glass of wine on the way back to the hotel for another break before heading back out.
We looked through the different neighborhoods and chose the neighborhood that was primarily an Orthodox Jewish and gay neighborhood. The thought of these two groups living in a small district of Pars was a little too much to pass up, so we headed up the the neighborhood, and wandered around to find a nice cafe to eat at. We found a very nice cafe and had some excellent burgers, great fries, and tasty beer. An excellent last dinner in Paris.
The next morning we packed up, grabbed some breakfast at a bakery nearby, and took the RER to Paris Norde to grab the high-speed train to London. We had stopped at a market on the way up to the station to grab some cheese, crackers, soda, and wine. As this train was going directly into London, the two countries had set up a customs post in the train station. And since the UK is part of the EU but not part of the Shengen Zone (which means that you do not need to present your passport to travel over borders), so we had to submit landing cards and have our passports checked and stamped (for me only the 3rd check since landing in Amsterdam but the first stamp). However, this meant that when we reached London, we could just walk off the train into the city.
We sat across from a very friendly older couple from a few hours north of London who were over visiting a friend of the wife's from when she studied for a year in France. She had been a teacher for blind children and he had spent 35 years as a programmer for IBM. Very nice and friendly and gave us some pretty good advice for London and a travel book as well.
After this pleasant conversation, we arrived in London and headed over to our hotel.

Monday, February 9, 2009

Heidelberg (again)

So I returned to Heidelberg to recharge my batteries, do some laundry, see some more family, and recharge the batteries. Kevin and his family were again very nice and kind, and I was able to grab some excellent lunch and breakfast and cook some lasagna for dinner. Getting another chance to use my mediocre German skills with his in laws was quite fun, as they are both very nice, but do not really speak English.I arrived in the morning from Strasbourg and then Keven met me in his car at the train station, and I headed back to catch up on emails and blogging. Then I ran downstairs to have a bit of lunch before tossing my clothes in the washing machine and running into town to get the supplies for lasagna from the PX (I think the army base retail store is called). Then we headed back, walked the dog and headed over to his inlaws' place, which was around the corner, and promptly were given beers and broke out some local schnapps made from distilled pears, which was a bit strong, but incredibly good. Then we headed back for me to start cooking the dinner. His wife was in a skit/fundraiser for the local community center, so It was just me and Kevin and two of his sons for dinner. We ate dinner, then played Nintendo Wii while he and I enjoyed a few beers and some schnapps I had picked up in Erfurt. I passed out, woke up and then grabbed breakfast before heading out to the train station. Unfortunately I missed my connection to Mannheim from the train station, so Kevin was incredibly kind, and drove me over to Mannheim train station so I could grab the high-speed train to Paris. I didn't realize on the international ICE German trains you supplement includes a lunch, so I had a lunch of baguettes, cold cuts, yogurt, water, juice, tea and cheese. Not bad. Made it to Paris in enough time to drop my stuff off at the hotel before heading out to the airport to meet Jamie at arrivals.

Saturday, February 7, 2009

Strasbourg

Strasbourg was sort of always on my itinerary, although I had never really pencilled in the date. So I kind of decided, "I'm going to Strasbourg tomorrow," and then did so. Since I had only decided about 16 or 18 hours before I arrived in Strasbourg, I was not really able to plan ahead and meet up with some couchsurfers to stay with them, so instead I booked a room at a "hostel" in Strasbourg. I use this term loosely, because while it is indeed a hostel, the "bar," which was often a fantastic place to meet other travelers and plan sightseeing adventures, was mostly selling Fanta and Coca-Cola to the 150 high schoolers who apparently are always here, when school is in session (good location, group rates and a cheap cafeteria means this is apparently where all of the school groups stay in Strasbourg).That aside, the city itself is very lovely, the people are very nice, and the food is fantastic. The first day I checked in at about 3pm and wandered around the Grand Isle, which is where the cathedral and old city are based. I checked into a few cool looking old restaurants, however these were either not open yet (apparently 7:30pm is pretty standard for restaurants to open for dinner) or were full, so I ate at the cheap cafeteria, and not badly: a rice mixed with shrimp, ham, vegetables and pork loin in gravy. Seriously, I wish cafeterias that I have eaten in make this kind of food. Ended up sharing dinner with one of the other guys in my room, a HVAC welder who was returning to his home and family in Brittany the next day after being in Strasbourg for 4 weeks. It was pretty cool getting his perspective on France, Sarcozy, the EU, the US, etc. He did like Obama though, so he get points from me.The next day, I grabbed the free breakfast in the hostel and headed out to see the European Parliament (or Council of Europe, I think), which ended up being about a 45 minute walk, but it was nice out and you walk along a river. Upon arriving I was let into the lobby and asked where my tour was leaving from. After explaining I just kinda wanted to look around, I was handed a brochure about how to book tours for the COE. So I was kinda hungry, and figured I'd find a nice place either where I had been the day before or up here. About 15 minutes away, I saw 3 old ladies and a business man separately walk into a weinstub (or something; like a bar and grill in America, according to my guidebook), and I figured it any place that those 4 would like, so would I.So I had a lunch of wine, a salad with I think some sort of head cheese or other unidentified meats smushed together, about a pound and change of sauteed mussels, fries, and coffee. Not bad. Actually, it was completely awesome.Even though I did not couchsurf in Strasbourg, I did still message people about getting a drink or drinks on my final night in Strasbourg. I heard back from someone who recommended that I go to a poker tournament that some friends of hers were throwing. It was actually pretty cool.I brought 2 bags of the obligatory salty snacks and a 6 pack of Meteor, which is apparently their crap beer (though I actually rather liked it). everyone was incredibly cool, and on occasion remembered that I did not speak French, and so would repeat the sentence in English. but I learned the important words, and could point when not able to. Once the beer and chips ran out, people kept bringing around wine and snacks such as sausages and candies, so there was plenty to eat and drink. Plus I met a few people from cities I had already visited, and I found out if my impressions were accurate and if I went to the right places.Made it to the last table, but not much beyond that. Headed back to the hostel a little after 3 so that I could make my train to Heidelberg. Which I did, as I now sit in my cousin's house, typing on his computer. A relaxing day in Dilheim then off to Paris tomorrow.

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Erfurt

My train trip to Erfurt was...interesting. The ticket agent booked me on the correct train from Fulda to Erfurt, but booked me on the wrong day from Copenhagen to Fulda. This was unfortunate, as the couchette (bunk in a sleeping car) was already booked for the night. So I went down to the conductor and talked him into getting me a couchette for the night, which he did, and so slept comfortably for the few hours until he started waking me up hourly, starting at about 4 am or so to let me know the train was running late and I would not make my original connection, which was fine, as it got me into Erfurt about 2 hours before my friend finished at work.
My friend in Erfurt was an exchange student in Chelsea during my Junior year, and I had found her on Facebook and explained that I was coming out to Europe, so we were trying to coordinate schedules. As I had a few places I was committed to being, and she is in residency for neurosurgery, this was a bit complicated. However, these few days worked out for everyone, so I headed out.
She finished her work at the hospital and we grabbed some breakfast and then went walking around the Old City of Erfurt, did a little shopping, grabbed a coffee and then headed back to the apartment to meet her boyfriend when he got off work.
The first night we went out to get some authentic Turingen dinner, which was absolutely fantastic. add to that a few 1/2 liters of dark beer, and I was ready to pass out at about 9:30, which I did (apparently a few too many 4 am nights in a row or something, guess I´m getting old). The next day I walked around Erfurt, did a bit more shopping, grabbed a Thuringen roasted bratwurst (I got another one the next day, in the interest of full disclosure), and caught up on emails and calls. That night we went out to the supermarket to buy things for dinner, which ended up being a chicken and ham stir-fry in a sweet chili sauce, which was very sweet and not very chili. I also learned that I need to work on my pan frying skills, as I did a good job ripping up the noodles, but not a great job of actually frying them. But it turns out with a few good beers and a taste of the original East German cola, Vita, everything tastes pretty good. A bit of House in German, and I was ready to, and did, pass out.
The next day I headed over to Wiemar to see the home of Goethe, Zeiss, Luther, Strauss, Bach, Bauhaus, etc. It was a very picturesque, if touristy city, but I had quite a good time. I returned to my friend´s apartment for some afternoon blogging, pastries, tea and ordering of some very good Vietnamese take out. Her friend from work stopped by and I heard all about life in a German hospital, and had a very entertaining dinner. A few glasses of wine and the rest of the Vita cola bottle, and it was time for people to go to sleep. I finished up the night by finishing up this blog, so now everyone should be up to speed. Tomorrow it is off to Strasbourg, then Heidelberg, then off to Paris, which is the city of...something. Umm...lights maybe?

Copenhagen

I got into Copenhagen at 10 after 5 on a Sunday, and met up with the people I would be staying with through couchsurfers. This Web site allows people travelling around the world to meet up with people willing to let them sleep on their couches.
So I arrive in Copenhagen and met one of the people I was staying with. One of the two people moved to Denmark from Uzbekistan and the other grew up in Ã…rhus, a city in West Denmark, on the mainland. The guy had just gotten over the flu, so he did not feel like going out that night, so we went out and got take-out Indian food and a few beers. We stayed up for a bit then passed out at about 11:00pm. The next morning we went out and grabbed some stuff for breakfast, as they were quite interested in having "real American pancakes" and I was interested in having Danish pastries from Denmark. The pastries were actually amazing, though I suppose that that is not really surprising, and I think they liked the pancakes, though I had to eye the measurements, as I did not have a tablespoon, teaspoon, and measuring cups that measure "cups." So a little too much baking powder, but that can be covered with Nutella, and if you have never had American pancakes before, then I have a relatively clean slate to work with.
I said goodbye, grabbed my bags, and then headed out to the train station to drop off my bags at the rail station lockers before seeing the sights in Copenhagen. A few museums, a few churches, a palace and an all-you-can-eat Middle eastern buffet and then I headed off to the train to get my transit to Erfurt on. Erfurt: the green heart of Germany.